In this interview, IDenteco talks to Nune Malakyan, the founder of Nush Enamel Jewellery. She shares her inspiring journey from receiving a simple gift to creating a vibrant jewellery brand that brings Armenian heritage to life. Discover how her passion for traditional ornaments and modern colors led to the creation of distinctive, handcrafted pieces that celebrate culture and beauty.
How did you come up with the idea of creating the Nush Enamel Jewellery brand? Did it start as a business project or did it grow out of a passion/hobby?
The creation of the Nush Enamel Jewellery brand began with a small gift. While working as a doctor in an ophthalmology clinic far from Armenia, I received a book of Armenian ornaments from my husband. The idea to create jewellery emerged instantly, but the opportunity to transform it to life only came five years later when my family and I moved to Armenia.
The concept was simple yet, in my opinion, magnificent: to take Armenian ornaments from books, museums, and temple walls, give them bright, modern colors, and bring them back to the people so they could wear these pieces of history and culture in their everyday lives.
My company started with the desire to bring this idea to life, and to be honest, I still don't see it as a business but rather as a calling to give people beauty and a piece of our heritage.
Tell us about your team: who else is involved in this work?
Currently, we have a team of eight employees, each of them has a very responsible role. An error at any stage of production can affect the quality of the final product. Therefore, quality control at each stage of jewellery creation is crucial and significant.
Can you please briefly describe the jewellery creation process? Not everyone knows how much work goes into handmade pieces.
The process of creating jewellery begins with an idea, and this stage's duration is the most unpredictable since it entirely depends on moments of inspiration. It is at this stage that a sketch is born, suitable for further work with enamel.
Next comes the modeling stage, which is done using computer programs, followed by cutting the model in wax. This wax model is then cast into a master model, which serves as the basis for creating a mold intended for serial production castings.
After the silver part is made, it is prepared for enameling, including multiple acid etchings and firings. These processes are necessary to clean the silver surface of all impurities, preventing their reaction with the enamel.
The next stage is the most creative: choosing colors and the enameling process. The enamel is applied to the surface, after which the piece is fired in a kiln at temperatures ranging from 700 to 800 degrees Celsius, depending on the chosen color. Three to fifteen layers of enamel are applied.
The process ends with the finishing and polishing of the piece, as well as the application of a rhodium coating.
Creating one piece of jewellery from scratch takes about two to three months. If the jewellery is made from an already cast model, the entire process takes about 7-8 hours of manual work.
What can be considered the distinguishing feature of Nush Enamel Jewellery?
Technology:Â Hot enamel is indeed one of the most complex jewellery techniques, making pieces created this way rare worldwide. Unlike cold enamel, hot enamel is glass ground into powder, which is then applied to a silver base and fired in a kiln. During firing, the glass powder melts, forming a durable, smooth layer on the model's surface. This is a very labor-intensive process, but it is only through this technology that bright and long-lasting jewellery can be achieved.
Authentic Armenian Ornaments:Â We use elements of authentic Armenian ornaments in each of our pieces, presenting them in a modern interpretation of design and color.
Versatility:Â Our jewellery is designed to easily match with each other, even if they are from different collections, making them versatile for everyday use.
Wide Palette of Natural Shades:Â The wide palette of natural hot enamel shades provides a vast choice for creative color combinations. This allows, for example, the combination of different shades of the same color in sets like rings and earrings, giving them an additional touch and visual appeal.
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Do you have any preferences regarding color schemes or style direction when creating jewellery?
I think we all have our color preferences, which can reflect our temperament and even character traits. Personally, I am fond of calm shades, especially in the blue and sea spectrum. However, as mentioned before, the hot enamel technique offers a huge selection of natural, earthy shades, so everyone can find something to their liking.
What jewellery do you wear yourself? Do you have favorites?
My most precious piece of jewellery is the "Mom's Bracelet," which is made by custom orders only. This unique bracelet is adorned with figurines of my children, each handcrafted and decorated, with elements of their clothing added. The names of my children are engraved on the back. The Armenian sign of eternity, made in the hot enamel technique, adds elegance to this bracelet. For me, this bracelet is not just an accessory but a true embodiment of unconditional and pure love.
My second favourite is "Yeghgnadzor Tiger" brooch. The idea for this brooch is based on an Armenian ornament found in the 16th century in the Yeghgnadzor region.
And a classic yet vibrant collection is the "Linear Collection," inspired by Armenian linear ornaments.
How do you see the development of your brand in the future?
Since the hot enamel technique requires only manual production, I don't think (and maybe even don't want to) that my company will ever grow into a massive production. I believe it will continue to be a niche brand for connoisseurs of unique, high-quality, and vibrant jewellery, but it will extend beyond Armenia, spreading our ornaments, embodied in modern jewellery, around the world.
Nush Enamel: https://www.instagram.com/nushenamel/?hl=en
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